There is a saying going something like "The simplest way is often the best way." And even though I am a tier who enjoys a certain amount of aesthetics in my flies, I have to admit that when it comes to flies for sea-run trout in saltwater, I have almost entirely left out any elements of aesthetics. This pattern is a good example of a pattern stripped down to only the key element; the shiny, translucent appearance of many species of crustaceans that is a significant part of the sea-run trouts diet in saltwater.
This pattern has been a part of my flybox for several years, and have been slightly tweaked throughout the time until I have now a pattern that I find to best resemble the desired effect. it is probably the fly I have caught the most fish on during the period from late winter and all the way into the early summer. I have had most success with this pattern in size 6 and 8, but in the most early part of whinter I have even had some success with this pattern on a size 4 fished with slow, but even pulls and with a sinking line. Later into the spring when the water starts to warm up a little bit I change my line to a intermediate, but often remain the slow pulls for a few weeks before I start to pick up the retrieving speed. Near the end of the spring I change to a hoover/intermediate line and go down on the size of the fly; at times as small as size 10. Fon the smaller sizes you can add a very few strands of fluorescent red antron; just to bring a slight accent to the color of the fly.
Step 1: The Hook
For many of my saltwater flies I prefer the Osprey Saltwater from Veniard, but other saltwater hooks with standard lengths will do.
Step 2: The Thread
The thread for this fly is white. In this fly I use a 6/0 thread for the whole fly, but a thinner thread might be used. The primary reason I chose such a thick thread is to add durability to the dubbing loop.
NOTE: This fly seem to fish better as more scruffy it becomes, but if the dubbing loop breaks up too much the fly quickly will lose its exquisite "fishability".
Step 3: Tie in the silver wire
To better secure the fly, tie in a silver wire that later will be counter-wrapped over the body.
Step 4: Tie in the Mirage Tinsel
Tie in a length of UTC Mirage tinsel in the color Opal.
Step 5: Move the thread
Position the thread to the middle of the body.
Step 6: Make a dubbing loop
Make a thread loop that is approximately 10-15 com long, or about 4 or 5 inches.
Step 7: A layer of thread
Tie the thread loop all the way back and wrap the thread forward to leave only a headlenght of bare hookshank between the thread and the eye of the hook.
Step 8: Make the Underbody
Coat the body with a thin layer of superglue, or other water-resistant adhesive, and wrap the mirage tinsel in slightly overlapping turns forward, and tie off with two wraps of thread.
Step 9a: The dubbing (Mix)
Take a sufficient pinch of Ice Dub in the color UV Pink, add a few long strands of fluorescent white antron. Optionally one can add a very few strands of fluorescent red antron that should be spread unevenly into the mix. Make sure the dubbing is well spread inside the loop.
Step 9b: The dubbing (Spin the loop)
Carefully spin the loop with a dubbing twister, and make sure to not spin it too much so that all fibers get spun into a thick rope. Just spin the loop enough so you are left with a rather fluffy dubbing brush.
Step 10: Wrap the dubbing loop
Wrap the dubbing brush to form the main body. It does not show well in the picture, but you should leave a small space between each turn to make sure the mirage tinsel in the underbody is showing through. This will create a very tasty effect in the water.
Step 11: Brush out the dubbing
Use a velcro or even a rifle cleaning brush to pick out the dubbing so that it will be easier to wrap the ribbing without tying down the dubbing.
Step 12: Wrap the ribbing
Counter-wrap the silver wire over the body and secure with tying thread.
Step 13: Finish off
Again brush out the dubbing well to make a nice translucent effect, and also make the mirage tinsel more viable from underneath the dubbing.
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All photos are taken by me and shall not be used without permission.